The Resturant and Chess Board

It all looks very modern and refined, which belies the Blakelands past as a working country house with malthouse, barns and stables. It dates from Tudor times, having been built by the Corbett family, and has been lovingly restored, and is now run by, Paul and Heather Morgan.

The lodge restaurant has the appearance of a barn conversion but internally the exposed brickwork and decoration looks brand spanking new. In fact everything we saw was immaculate.

You are advised to book a table at Blakelands and when I rang to make a reservation for a Saturday evening there was only one slot available, at 9pm, so it is obviously a popular venue.

We stepped into the comfortable reception lounge where we relaxed with the evening dinner menu applicable for June, July and August. The restaurant makes great play of the fact its ingredients are from local suppliers and the beef was guaranteed English. None of the meals contained genetically modified ingredients or additives.

These statements seemed to have reassured that evening’s diners, because all the sirloin had been sold (and presumably eaten) by the time we ordered. No matter, there were other steaks, as well as duck, salmon, ham and the rest.

It was the English duck that took my fancy, then I choked a little to see the price was £24.50. Sorry, my mistake. The £24.50 included a choice of starter AND dessert AND coffee. So it was not all that unreasonable.

Starters included chanterelle melon balls and crispy coated cheese with caramellised red onion chutney. As I was plumping for the duck, and desserts were included, I was very noble and ordered a salad — not just any old salad but a Waldorf salad (which Tschirsky apparently pioneered in 1896).

The Blakelands’ booking-in system worked well and we were soon ushered in to the restaurant to a lovely table near patio doors and with a view over the pool, fountain and wading bird statuary. Dining as the sun set seemed very civilised, and more than a touch indulgent.

My salad, cleverly presented as a column of mayonnaise-bound chopped greens, apple, celery and walnut, was a crunchy delight.

Libby’s citrus chicken provided tender strips of meat with a zinginess which almost made your eyes water. Mint and cucumber yoghurt was the ideal foil, so an excellent start for both.

The main courses were both top drawer. My plate was almost half-covered by an arc of sliced, pink duck which was succulent in the extreme. The liberal accompaniment of damson and plum sauce looked a little gaudy but tasted superb. It was made from real fruit (with real plum stones).

The salmon fillet on Libby’s plate was the biggest she had every had, but size does not count where taste is concerned. It was a choice piece of fish with cajun spices adding to, and not detracting from, the subtle salmon taste. A crisp salad and sour cream dip accompanied.

We tucked in liberally to the tasty new and diced roast potatoes with carrots, peas, broccoli and cauliflower, with hardly a morsel left over.

So nice to have sensible portions so that little goes to waste (and there’s room for dessert). Wine was a very pleasing bottle of Penny Red (£13.70) from the nearby Halfpenny Green Vineyard.

With creme brulee on offer Libby did not ponder over the sweet menu for long. It approached perfection, had a proper, burnt topping and even came with a little fresh fruit. For me it was the Bailey’s and cappuccino dome, which is apparently a favourite at Blakelands. The Mocha mousse and whipped cream centre was encased in white chocolate and had a dusting of cocoa. Blissful.

My wife finished off with fruit tea (no accounting for the female taste). I more traditionally had a cafetiere of medium Colombian coffee which was made to Sumo strength — more bliss.

Just about everything is catered for at Blakelands, from the baby-changing shelf in the ladies’ to customers with special dietary requirements. There is even an outside chessboard and pieces of gargantuan proportions.

With the excellent choice and quality of food provided, this restaurant certainly qualifies as a bit special but, with the bill coming in at under £65, not prohibitively expensive.

• Smoking in lounge, no smoking in restaurant.
• Good access for disabled.
• Tel: (01384) 221000.

MENU SAMPLE:

Starters:
Garlic mushrooms cup; Blakelands patŽ with fresh white toast.

Main courses (incl price of starter, dessert and coffee):
10oz New York strip steak with onions, mushroom and garlic bread (£27.50); mushroom stroganoff sauteed with wine and brandy and served with timbale of rice (£18.75).

Desserts
Alabama chocolate fudge cake; American apple pancakes with caramel sauce.

ATMOSPHERE: Refined and comfortable.

SERVICE: Professional and friendly.